anvil as the pattern and enlarged it to 300# size for the first type. Under the horns,I carved a "blob" of metal so the horns looked welded on as per the directions of the master blacksmith. It's not very visible on the unpolished surfaces,but I had to carve the patterns so they looked hand forged. Those castings cost a LOT!! They hadn't ground the table,or hardened the 5 leg anvil yet. Peculiar looking anvil with a smallish horn,an earlier pattern than the first one. I retired before the pattern was quite finished. They made the hole too large,and have to adjust their pattern. The 5 legged one on the floor is the first casting of a pattern I 99% completed in 2009. They have had hard daily use and haven't gotten appreciably worn yet. The anvil on the stump was the first pattern I made in the 70's. Gone the way of the anchor forgers(truly!!) They had their 300# anvils cast from 4140 as no one anymore has the means to properly forge them and weld on the tops. ![]() At least the tail DOES have some usable area left. anvils for the blacksmith shop in Williamsburg(as toolmaker I did all kinds of things),I know that they considered good corners essential. Yes,you can make many things on it,but,having made the patterns for 18th.C. I smith when I have to,but it is not an area I get involved heavily in. But,I defer to those more involved in blacksmithing than I am. I doubt this anvil has "collectible" value,really. I used the angle grinder with the hard wheel to rough down the weld deposit, then finished with a flex-back and finer grits of abrasive to blend/polish the repaired areas. I used an angle grinder with a hard wheel to grind to the bottom of the chipped/cracked areas, and a die grinder to blend the ends of the ground out areas so there was a smooth curve rather than a sharp ending to the grind-out. I forget the MG Messer rod number, but it is still available. If you can stand a color difference in the weld repair vs original steel, the MG Messer electrode will do the job handily. I've repaired a few other damaged anvils for people, but nothing like the mess on my Kohlswa. Over ten years ago, I paid about 120 bucks for 10 lbs of the electrode. I had no problem with postweld cracking or cracking in use.īe forewarned the MG Messer specialty electrodes are pricey. I then ground the edges and corners back to original shape, checking with a straightedge. I built the corners of my Kohlswa anvil up with multiple passes of the hardface rod, going about 1/8" over original size. The cracking was kind of the root of the chipping. I did grind down to sound steel, below the chipped area and below any cracking. The electrode is laid down in short stitches, and then I used a backstep on the tie in welds between the stitches. With some use, the weld deposit work hardens to Rockwell 60c. As welded, the weld deposit is something like Rockwell 50-55c (pretty hard). It is a repair/hardface electrode made for repairing tools steels, manganese tool steels, and their information says it is suitable for repair of anvils. I got it from MG Messer, and called them to confirm it was right for the job. I repaired my Kohlswa anvil using a specialized hard-facing electrode for repair of tool steels. This is consistent with manganese steels which do work harden to the point they start chipping and cracking. It had the chipped edges, and when I ground into the chipped edges (corners), I found cracking. The cracking can run into the face of the anvil. This steel work hardens, and Kohlswa anvils that are used a lot tend to have chipped/cracked edges. ![]() They made them out of a manganese alloy steel. Kohlswa made anvils in what were called the "London Pattern". I second the opinion that the anvil is a "Kohlswa" Swedish made anvil. Its plenty good enough to make all kinds of things with. You have sharp corners on the heel and on the step big enough for most simple work.īefore you potentially ruin a decent, if well worn anvil, learn some smithing. Many blacksmiths actually round over at least one edge of brand new anvils, and just leave some parts sharp. There are plenty of sharpish edges on that for bending if you need sharp inside squares. Welding can screw up the heat treat and hardness, and in some cases can make the steel inlay top plate fall off or come loose- and its just not needed. The edges are not that bad- round em smooth with a 4 1/2" grinder, first with a grinding wheel, then with a flap disc. Its NOT cast iron- its either all steel, or a steel plate set into a wrought iron base, or maybe a cast iron base, if its a Fisher, which I dont think it is. he or his friends will be able to tell you what it is, and, most likely, approximately when it was made. First- to identify, go to - Blacksmithing and Metalworkers Reference for Metal Artists, and send the pictures to the Guru.
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